The Dark Underwater World

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wow, what a windy day!!! 40mph gusts and everything flying around outside my house. what happened to the variable wind days? what happened to the South/West wind days? i have to say that this years has been weird as far as weather. but hey, this is hawaii so can’t complain right? beautiful sunny days with strong wind is still better than gray sky and snow. i’m not complaining.

going under big waves is pretty cool. i never use to like it because i wasn’t in shape before and always thought i would die. i use to dive under and try my fastest to come back up. it usually took me about 10 seconds at times, but felt like 10 minutes. i was panicked, i was scared, and i use to close my eyes and just pray. but after practicing more free diving and yoga throughout the years, i’m a lot more relaxed underwater. i see a big wave, i take a slow deep breath, i dive under, my body and mind relaxed, and come up slowly. then if another one comes, i do the same thing. it took years and years to be comfortable under big waves but now it’s actually fun. the last time is shot underwater photos on the north shore, i was taking photos of other photographers getting pounded. see that guy on the right? his head is about to hit the sand. next big swell, hopefully i have a day off because i want to take more shots like this because these are the things you normally won’t see.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide