Behind the Wall

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yesterday we took the 3 hour drive up the coast. through the mountains and along the coastline. it was so beautiful! i came to taiwan 4 times and this is the first of renting a car. it’s amazing how much you can explore and how much you can remember. i think i can drive around this whole country and maybe someday i will.
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driving through the back roads heading to surf spots is fun. right when i see the waves, my heart starts pumping and i get so excited.
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pulling right up to the beach, waxing the board, and going surfing. free parking, free ocean, and free life!
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then we surfed our second round in the evening watching the sunset. it was just another beautiful moment.
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my first time up this side and i think i’m loving it. i better surf more and more because i can feel my surf trunks getting really tight. it’s my first time up to this side of Taiwan and i think i’m falling in love with it.
surf your dream.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide