Japanese Soul Surfer

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the best part of traveling is meeting new people. Kimura-san was on Rote Island in indonesia where he met Mori-san. we called him on the way up to this area and met him. a super cool guy that loves surfing just as much as we do. i guess that’s why we all get along very well. good waves together, good food together, good drinks together, and good laughs together. this is surfing!
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Mori-san moved here 4 years ago and has been surfing perfect empty lineups ever since. if he’s not here, he’s somewhere in the world surfing world class waves. a cool soul surfer that surfs super good! thank you Mori-san for taking care of us!
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had a great conversation with these taiwan surfers. they drove 6 hours from taipei to surf this secret spot. one of the girls told me “you guys are VERY LUCKY!” that’s what i love hearing.
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there’s a big city 30 minutes away. perfect for a good massage and good food.
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$25 for an hour of a full body pampering. i was sleeping the whole time but when i woke up, i felt so fresh.
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then we went to eat the best taiwan nabe ever! it was Mori-san’s favorite and i’d have to say it tastes better than any taiwan nabe i’ve tried before. spicy and good!
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the pig blood was interesting. tasted like liver, blood, with a tofu texture.
ok, i gained about 8 pounds on this trip. combine that with the 8 pounds i gained in japan, my stomach looks pretty happy. i better get back to hawaii soon before it gets out of control. but until then, i’m going to eat, eat, and eat!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide