wow, time sure goes by so fast. photos that i wanted to post months ago seems like years ago. this past north shore season, i went out with Naoka to surf, shoot, surf, and shoot.
walking on the beach early in the morning is cool. yes, the same beach where thousands gather for the pipeline masters. nobody around this morning. just the cool wind, thundering waves, and a few dogs taking a morning walk. the time i like best.
then to paddle out, get a few backdoor gems, and call it a day. and the sun still isn’t up yet.
getting barreled at first light is a great feeling for me. very addicting and very satisfying.
then go to the billabong house and talk to my brother in law Tony Moniz. Tony was the one who took me out to backdoor back in the 1980’s. back then, localism was fierce. Tony introduced me to the boys like Dane Kealoha, Perry Dane, Johnny Boy Gomes, Michael Ho, and many other heavy hawaiian locals. that made my life out there a lot more easier. but at the same time, when you have one of the heavy locals yelling “Go Kirby!” when a big 10′ closeout set comes, i had to go. i was more afraid of holding back then getting hurt. that’s how life use to be on the north shore back in the 1980’s.
pack up the boards in the car and head to haleiwa on the way back to town. a different playground, a different vibe, and seems like a different day.
Naoka sat on the beach and took photos of me at backdoor, i sat on the beach and took photos of Naoka at haleiwa. team work!
2 surf sessions, 2 photo shoots, and we were still back in town by 10am. feels great to have photos to relive the moment. Surf Your Dream!
