Lost Champions and Traffic Jam

356

IMG_2371
first i threw a bicycle and skateboards in the truck so we didn’t get stuck in traffic. pipeline masters final day draws tens of thousands of people so i was expecting the worst. then my brother said “why don’t you take the motorcycle?” Oh Yeah! great idea! we load up the motorcycle and head to the north shore. park the truck at sharks cove, and get to pipeline in 1 minute. park in the driveway of the billabong house and it couldn’t have been any easier.
IMG_2377
omg, i couldn’t believe how many people were on the beach! people from all over the world! so amazing how popular surfing has come.
IMG_0942 copy
with all the social media exposure, you still can’t beat the front row seats. it’s free!
IMG_0945 copy
half of the people came to see Kelly Slater try to win his 12th world title. he ended up being upset in the first round of the morning. then half the beach left. haha.
IMG_0963 copy
today was a historic day for brazil! i was so stoked for 20 year old Gabriel Mendina winning the world championship! he really deserved it.
IMG_1013 copy
and yes, the motorcycle was the best choice. the traffic was crazy!
IMG_2380
then we came back to town and surfed bowls from sunset until dark. fun waves and fun time. a long exciting day in the history of the sport of surfing. slept like a baby!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide