omg, went to surf bowls this morning and was stoked to see the waves even bigger than yesterday. another south swell! we scored so many good waves!! so happy!
oh, sorry my surf reports have been late. i just got a new top of the line bed and i can’t get up anymore. i fall asleep in 20 seconds and sleep like a baby till morning. i think i have to set my alarm again for my dawn patrols.
yesterday’s pipe masters was all about brazil. brazil’s been trying for the past 30 years to win a world championship. well, young 20 year old Gabriel Medina made the dream come true. focused, determined, and a true champion. just amazing watching this boy achieve the ultimate surfers dream. i’m sure the whole country of Brazil is proud of him.
i’ve never seen so many people at the pipeline masters ever since it started decades ago. with the social media and expertise asp advertising, surfing has finally become a respected mainstream media professional sport. and to see all these fans cheering for their surfers on the waters edge was a site to see.
when Mick Fanning lost, Gabriel Mendina was declared 2014 ASP World Champion! if felt like i was in brazil or something. the fans screaming, the brazil flags, and chanting going on.
so stoked for Brazil and i’m sure Gabriel win more and more world champions to come.
42 year old Kelly Slater had 3 golden chances this year to lead the ratings. he blew all of them. i’m sure he will reset and win one more world championship before he retires. it was pretty sad watching one of the worlds fierce competitors coming out of the water after losing his heat. and especially when careless people try to get a photo of themselves with him at that moment. that must have been very hard for the champ.
well, huge waves tomorrow. south swell continues. north winds this week. great weather and winds for surfing and diving. hopefully can do both.
