Oahu Back Country

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when driving in a car, you can see only certain things. when riding a tall motorcycle, you can see everything. i had 2 free hours yesterday afternoon so i decided to go up the ridge and check things out. just looking for something different, something untouched, and something interesting. my motorcycle is stock so it’s very quiet. i can roll down mountains in complete silence.
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and when you pull up to corners on the ridge, you can see some amazing breathtaking views. i’ve been living in hawaii my whole life and i still trip out on how beautiful this island is.
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i know someday i’m going to get lost. it’s just a matter of time. i just hope my sense of direction will get me out of the jungle. all i have to know which way the ocean is and it’s going to be easy because i can smell it.
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next time i go up this mountain, i’m going to take up a small tent and sleep overnight. it’s my little version of “Into the Wild.”
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yet another breathtaking billion dollar view. and i got to see all of this in 2 hours.
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then of course i stop to check out the surf. south swell continues. tomorrow i bet there will be 4′ sets at some secret spots. north shore 15′ and maybe only waimea bay. then get ready for 4 days of strong north winds. lucky for us guys living on the south shore as we surf perfect waves all week long.
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Hiyori-chan came from freezing Ishinomaki yesterday to very warm Hawaii. blue sky, white sand, and lots of aloha. welcome to Hawaii Hiyori-chan!
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she surfed really well. just riding the ocean as if she rode it everyday.
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this was yesterday. today i’m going to take her out for a special sunset session. different colors, different light, and different feeling. i know she’s going to love it!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide