omg, it was pretty dark and cold today. probably the coldest of the year for us in hawaii. but so what? the water is warm and the waves are good so let’s go naminori!
went to meet Hinako-chan and Kaito-kun this morning at bowls. then we ran into Minami-chan. a super japanese morning surf session. waves were super fun and it was uncrowded. we all caught so many good waves!
so stoked to see these kids surfing so good. Kaito-kun was ripping! super good style and big backside off the lips.
Hinako-chan is surfing really fast and strong. super cool watching her set the rail and drive off the bottom turn.
it was their first time surfing the south shore. both told me they had a relaxing time today. i know that feeling because surfing the north shore everyday can be stressful. it’s a whole new ballpark out there. good surfers need good balance and that’s why i love hawaii. good balance everywhere. if you ever get stressed on the north shore, come to town. always relaxing and fun waves.
then i went surfing with the girls this evening. the clouds cleared and the sun came out right at sunset time. another golden moment in the ocean. no wind, glassy conditions, and perfect waves. what another awesome day!
thank you Kurokawa-san for the treats! fresh bonito flakes from mugi, shikoku. my favorite!
cold north wind and weather continues. keep warm and go surfing!
