had such a great time surfing all day with Ogisako-san today. an elementary teacher/surfer from kagoshima that just loves to surf. we surfed a total of 6 hours today! yeah, 6 hours of wave after wave after wave. over 40 waves ridden by Ogisako-san and he told me it was the most he’s ever ridden in a day since he started surfing 10 years ago. and yes, the waves were super fun and not too many people out. this afternoon, it was just the 2 of us. score!
then i asked Ogisako-san what he wanted to eat for lunch. he said “saimin.” instead, i took him to eat the best vietnam saimin on the island. haha.
i use to eat saimin 3x a week before i discovered pho. now, never saimin again because pho tastes 100x better.
then we went looking at spots this afternoon. thought about things, and ended up surfing a spot with only the 2 of us out. thank you Ogisako-san for the surfing marathon day. i’m so sunburnt and tired. i bet you are too and will sleep very well tonight. enjoy the rest of your vacation in hawaii and keep on surfing. oh, and keep riding your Yamaha WR250! see you on the trails!
the whole month of december, the weather was pretty bad. but since yesterday, things have changed. the 2 most beautiful days of the year yesterday and today. tomorrow will be the same and so will be for the rest of 2014. lucky and enjoy!
