ok, i just went 7 days straight of surfing 5-6 hours per day. super fun, and today was no exception. tomorrow i took a day off as i need to rest out of the sun. but knowing me, i’ll go surfing anyway. haha.
omg, how cold was it this morning? 15 degrees C. i had sweat pants and a thick jacket on and i was still cold. more cold days ahead.
picked up Miyahara-san early this morning and hit our first session at diamond head. only had one other guy out lighthouse so we got some fun waves. it was such a beautiful day!
then we went to eat at the original pancake house. canadian bacon, sunny side up eggs, and macadamia nut pancakes. i was so full after this!!!
then we went to check bowls and nobody was out! super fun waves and we had the whole spot to ourselves. what a lucky afternoon. Miyahara-san caught so many good waves and was surfing super good. we had a lot of laughs today and so much fun.
then it was time to say goodbye. thank you Miyahara-san for 2 awesome surf sessions. hope you have a great new years countdown tonight!
as for me, it’s 8pm and my eyes are closing. after i post this, i’m closing my eyes and am going to watch the countdown in my dreams. tomorrow i want to start out fresh so no alcohol tonight. going to wake up early and be 100% genki and start my new years off on the right path. surf, dive, travel, family, and friends. what else do you need to have another great year? good night 2014!
