the storm was crazy! strong winds from the opposite direction bending the trees the wrong way. things flying around outside, big storm, heavy rain, and super dangerous to even go outside.
this as i was getting ready to go out after my dinner party, BLACK OUT! all the electricity went off and it was pitch dark. it turned out to be a very peaceful night.
omg, yesterday started off so fun! super clean morning conditions. surfed with Shuudo-san and Chihiro-san. just perfect clean glassy waves. THEN, the storm came! 12pm to be exact when the south/west winds at 40mph started to blow onshore. the waves totally blown out and nobody out in the ocean. so what? i have the tough Team Slovakia that loves the challenge.
Day 4 and Martina getting stronger and stronger. super happy surfer girl that just loves the ocean. no ocean in Slovakia so the main reason she came to hawaii is to Surf, Surf, and Surf! so that’s what we’ve been doing!
Jan is a fighter. never giving up and using every ounce of energy in his strong body. i swear he must have went through 100 waves or more getting out after each ride. the waves kept on coming and coming but Jan kept on going and going. i was on the side of him yelling “paddle, paddle, paddle” like an army sergeant.
once again, surfing better and better each wave. that’s what you call “determination.”
Martina surfing gracefully on every ride. it was a super rough last 2 days of surfing for this couple and i’m hoping the ocean calms down for them. 2 more sessions and after this hawaiian surf trip, i know they will go back to Slovakia dreaming about surfing and hawaii everyday. see you guys again this afternoon! be ready for another challenging day of surfing.
