was out surfing bowls the other day and seen something floating in the lineup. rubbish to some, scuba dive buoy to others, and lost and found to the person who lost it. i ended up carrying it and even surfing with it that morning. and i know exactly where it came from. it came from the scuba divers at magic island.
sunshine scuba. i think it’s on cooke street? i was going to take it back later that day but the traffic was too crazy. i’ll take it back there when i can find some time off. i don’t need it and i’m sure they would love to get it back.
marinated ahi sashimi over shiso and sushi rice. my lunch for yesterday.
the waves finally calmed down. still some head high sets this morning at rockpiles. but instead of 100 waves per hour, there were only 80 waves per hour. lots of paddling and lots of duck diving. been surfing these crazy conditions this past week and it felt like i paddled to molokai 5 times.
with the rough conditions we’ve been having, most people don’t even bother going out. so many rescues and lots of warnings by lifeguards. Team Slovakia Jan and Martina must have lost 10 lbs. each from all the paddling these past 6 sessions. but at the same time, their bodies are beginning to look like sculptured surfers. today was another challenging day, but it was almost too easy for them because their muscles are memorizing what they need to do. they flew from around the world to surf in hawaiian paradise, and i’m sure i’ll see them back soon because they got the surfing virus! from now, they will sleep, eat, and dream surfing. great job guys! IGE, IGE, IGE!!!
OMG, it’s 8:45pm! i better go to sleep already because tomorrow is another surfing all day routine. silent night, holy night, good night.
