ok, i wake up at 4:30am. feeling fresh as an apple. and also so dam cold! 15 degrees C? OMG! anyway, the best way to check the waves in the dark is to drive down to the beach and check it with your own eyes. so that’s what i did. i seen some rare west swells with a cool north/west breeze in the winds. diamond head already had 10 or so dawn patrollers. i knew bowls was going to be crowded as usual, so i thought about things and a great idea came to my mind.
i pick up Koguma-san and Enomoto-san at 7am and tell them them the great idea. hey guys, i have a feeling one of my secret spots is going to be pretty dam good with this swell direction, and with these winds. let’s go! and omg, it was such a beautiful morning.
too much traffic and didn’t want to paddle for hours. then i heard a voice as Mayuki started talking to me “why don’t you guys take me?” OMG! yeah! let’s go Mayuki! we leave the harbor, wax up, pick up my cousin photographer Daniel, and head to a place i knew these boys would enjoy. we pull up, nobody out! perfect peeling rights and lefts all to ourselves. next thing you know, it was 12pm!!! OMG, we surfed for 4 hours!!! the waves were so fun and we just kept on riding wave after wave. today was the perfect day for a rare hawaiian surf boat trip.
today was one of those days that would be ideal for surfing, diving, fishing, or just hanging out in the blue sky. what ever you choose, you made the right choice for sure.
then i drop off the boys and meet Team Slovakia for our sunset session. the waves good, the vibe good, and the smiles good. the sunset was so dam beautiful!
Yanto and Erik are two big Slovakians. although there is no ocean on Slovakia, these guys are hooked on surfing. so stoked to see them loving it so much. Yanto told me “OMG, i want to do this everyday!” i told him “i know exactly what you mean.”
tomorrow is going to be another fun filled day from morning till night. can’t wait! good night.
