Diamond Head Diamond Sunrise

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in japan, there is one day out of the year when the sun rises aligned with Mt. Fuji. i never got to see it before but someday i will. in hawaii, i can watch the diamond of diamond head sunrise for 2 months. all i have to do is jump on the boat and align myself with diamond head and the sunrise. then i take the photo and have a beautiful day. isn’t this amazing?
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there are only a handful of houses in hawaii where you can park a boat in your back yard. someday i will own one of them. the cheapest is about $3M but i’m a big dreamer. and when that day comes, you won’t see me driving a car ever again. i’ll jump on the boat everyday, drive to some yacht club, and jump on a motorcycle that will be parked there. no traffic. sounds like a dream yeah? yeah! but for now, i’ll just go pick up my friends and keep on dreaming. welcome aboard to my photographer cousin Daniel.
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Koguma-san and Enomoto-san were very lucky this day. it was the absolutely perfect day to have a hawaiian south shore boat trip. it was just us and the outer reef waves peeling perfectly both ways.
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and after a good session, there’s always a good smile. great 4 hour dream session boys!
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then we go to the most local of the local stores for lunch. so local that there are no tables. order a plate and eat it on the sidewalk local style.
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thank you Koguma-san and Enomoto-san for the dream session and treats. i forgot to tell you that i had just as much fun as you did. and thank you Enomoto-san for sending me the text “PRICELESS.” that is how i live my life and it’s the priceless moments that make life so priceless. keep on surfing boys!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide