This is WHY!

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it was a freezing cold morning in one of the heaviest damaged cities in iwate.
we were cold, we were hungry.
i get out of the van we were all sleeping in.
i see an older japanese woman walking down the hill balancing a tray of rice balls, and hot miso soup.
she was smiling and said, “please take this, you must be cold.”
we said thank you as she walked back up the hill.
come to find out, she lost a loved one in the tsumami a month ago.
we were all touched.
i took this video and when i watched it, it made me realize why i’m here. this is why i’m here!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide