Big Wave or Big Mountain

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this huge storm off japan produced all the snow we’ve been getting in hokkaido. it also produced some huge waves heading to the north shore of hawaii now. tomorrow should be 25′ in the evening so please be careful.
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it’s good to have friends around the world. this trip started off as a bare necessity backpacking trip. i came with nothing but now i have everything. here is Osamu-san fitting my big feet with snowboard shoes. then Tokura-san let me use some snow wear, and now i’m fully equipped.
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it’s hard to believe a backpacker can travel to niseko and get set up with all the best of the best of gear. i have the best circle of friends in this world. i love it!
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last nights snowboarding with the lights was amazing. super cold going up the mountain but super warm coming down. the blood was flowing and my adrenaline was at an all time high.
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woke up early and got the snowboarders dream. powder of the powder. Tokura-san carving up the mountain. and Tokura-san is actually the person who introduced me to snowboarding 23 years ago.
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Kenjiro-san from fukuoka rips. first time i met him was on a boat in the middle of indonesia 8 years ago. now we are here in hokkaido snowboarding. the awesome surfers circle.
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like i said, i have the best equipment any snowboarder would dream of. that makes it super easy for me to carve up the mountain. it’s been a very long time but everything is coming back pretty fast. i felt like i was surfing the biggest and most glassy wave in the world. looking from the top of the mountain down steep unridden slopes is amazing. it’s like taking off at waimea bay! i’m not as good as the guys i’m with, but if they go, i go. Tokura-san always tells me to “go slowly.” but i don’t know what slowly is. full speed is my life and full speed is what i love to do best.
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i have a very long way back to tokyo. 715 minutes to be exact. 12 hours of trains and trains. one part of me is wanting to go back on train because i have my free pass. but another part of me is wanting to catch a 1.5 hour flight back too. my wallet is saying train. but my sore body is saying airplane. tough decision to make. actually, not that tough. haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide