got up early again and drove out in the dark. checked pipeline early but didn’t look that good so i drove back to haleiwa and jumped in at first light. back in the days, i’d watch the waves for a long time before i went in because we didn’t have forecasts. but now, i pretty much know how the waves are going to be the night before. long intervals on the buoy so long waits for sets. these are the kind of days haleiwa can be very dangerous. it can look 2-4′ and very calm from the beach, but every so often, a big freak 8′ sets will come. luckily i was in the perfect rotation and caught so many awesome waves. got my thrills, and then i was done.
see all the people on the right looking for shells? they are all looking for sunrise shells. if you’re lucky, you can find them right here after big swells like we just had.
been riding a short board on the past few big swells. a Match shape by TSSC with a 4 fin setup. super easy to take off, super easy to turn, and super easy to get around sections. perfect for big haleiwa.
6’2 x 18 1/4 x 2 5/16 for 8′ waves is pretty short. you have to wait in the impact zone to take off and that’s where i like to be. just the fact of knowing a huge set is on the way makes you excited. but when you have a magic board, you have much more confidence.
went to buy pastries from wailua bakery, jumped back on the mountain side road back to town. it was only 9am and i was totally satisfied for the day. remembering all the good waves i caught in the morning and pretty happy all the way home. went to a yoga class after that and felt even better.
then i hear the great news from my sister. SETH MONIZ CHAMPION!!! OMG, Seth won the JR Pro at 8′ solid epic sunset beach today. another champion belt under his name and i’m super proud of this kid. beating the best juniors from around the world in real waves. no tricks, just pure carving on the notorious north shore at sunset beach. good job kid!
