oh my gosh!!!! that’s all i have to say about this morning. well, maybe a little more to say. i pulled up to ??? river mouth and seen somebody get a perfect 4′ barrel. i was super stoked and grabbed my board. as i was paddling out, the waves were getting bigger and bigger by the set. 5′, then 6′, then 7′, then consistent 8′ sets. there were 2 freak or “obake sets” that came in and i was in the wrong spot for the first one. i tried to paddle my hardest but the wave broke right in front of me. it was way too big to duck dive so i bailed my board and dove under. got held down for a while and had to find my way up by pulling my leash. it was a good wake up call. the waves were smoking…. got some barrels and seen this local guy get the best biggest nuttest barrel i’ve ever seen out there. it looked like 6′ inside sunset bowl. it was sick….. the best waves today were the double ups on the inside but you couldn’t wait there because the freak sets were too big. toward the end of my session, i went to the inside and waited for one. then i heard everybody on the beach whistling and i knew i was in trouble. the first one was pretty big, i barely made it. then the next one was even bigger. barely made that one too. shit, the waves were big today. i’d say the 2 freak sets were 10′ hawaiian scale. i had a 6’8 which wasn’t long enough. it’s 10:45am now and i’m grabbing my 7’6 and heading back. catch you later…..
