had an awesome pho for lunch. tried a different place out and loved the results. i’ll be back there again soon.
took 18 year old Kouji-kun today for a surf in the wild weather. super strong south/west winds making it the most challenging conditions at bowls. i’d say at least 50 waves per minute. non stop paddling and non stop wave after waves. Kouji-kun never gave up as we surfed until our arms couldn’t move anymore. it was a wild day in the ocean but many great waves ridden.
when you see 12 kite surfers out at ala moana, you know the winds are at least 35mph onshore or they won’t be out. only had one other guy out in the whole ocean surfing so that made it the 3 of us. only the strong survive on days like today.
Kouji-san is a very strong and athletic boy. but after 3 hours of continues paddling, i could see his arms getting heavy. he must have had to go over 200 waves today. never giving up! and when it was time to turn around and catch the wave, he rode it perfectly! i’m sure he’s sleeping good tonight.
it was cloudy and rainy all day, but as soon as we pulled up to the beach, the sun and blue sky came out! had an amazing day in the wild sea. south/west winds continue all week so expect challenging conditions pretty much everywhere. see you again on friday Kouji-kun!
last, right after the volcom pipeline contest yesterday, a whole bunch of kids paddled out for a surf. my nephew Seth paddled out too. so waking up this morning and watching the news about some kid drowning at pipe right after the contest, my heart stopped. it happened to be a tahitian surfer who was found unconscious. he’s in critical condition at the hospital now and we are all praying for a full recovery. everybody, please surf safe.
