what a treat yesterday and today. waves fun yesterday, but even funner today. shoulder high perfect glassy rights all morning long. surfed for a couple of hours and had so much fun. felt like summer! BUT, tomorrow things will change. junky south/west winds for the next few days so ugly conditions again.
my grand nephew has been hanging out at my house a lot lately. this is the closest to a surfboard he’s been so far. i can feel the day coming!
after eating real japanese food in japan for the past 25 years, i think my taste buds knows what is good, and what isn’t. this is good. my mouth is watering again. i miss japan.
next month will be the first time in my life i’m going to new york! i’m not a big fan of traveling around america so i’ll just spend one day there, then move on to some other country i’ve never been to before. like always, mother nature will decide where i’ll go. can’t wait!
“Live as if you were to die tomorrow. Learn as if you were to live forever.” Gandhi
this saying i truly believe in. i try to live by Gandhi’s guidelines. living each and every day as it’s my last. things happen so fast in this world we live in. one day you could be here, and the next, you could be gone. i’m still learning how to live this wonderful life. i’m still learning so the longer i live, the smarter i hope to be.
right as i was doing this blog, i get a text from bobby telling me about the terrible news. a japanese national got attacked by a shark in australia just a few hours ago. both legs bit off and he died on the beach after other surfers pulled him out of the water. it happened at New South Wales in very shallow water right off the shoreline. australian news posted the surfers name and photo as they are trying to contact his family. omg, so sad, and so shocking.
