had a blast with Sato-san the other day. just a super stoked out surfer that loves to surf. part of the coolest group of other surfers that friendships continue to bloom.
don’t let this photo fool you as it looks pretty easy. this day was yet another challenging day for waves. before Sato-san caught this first wave, he had to go over and under about 40 waves on the way out. it wasn’t easy.
nobody out. nobody as crazy as us. haha.
there was a big set coming in and Sato-san took off and pulled into the barrel. i couldn’t believe it! 57 years old and still getting barreled! what an inspiration!
last, been looking for someplace to go on the way back from New York. i would love to go watch this guy fish. do you think he has a cell phone where i can contact him? i’m trying but no luck so far.
