before i slept last night, i knew it was going to be an awesome day. and it turned out to be even better than awesome.
Seigo-san and Yuki-san from Marutaya Ramen in wakayama. Seigo-san already a good surfer, and Yuki-san’s first time. the waves were BIG but Yuki-san charged! a first timer paddling out on constant head high waves. perfect conditions and great rides! after our session, we went to eat a poke bowl and ono seafood. $8.50 for a super bowl combo with drink. can’t go wrong.
i ordered the shoyu ahi/hawaiian ahi combo. pretty healthy and super good.
then we had time to burn off the calories from lunch so we went out to the ocean. gosh, it’s been a long time since i got out into the deep blue. today seemed like the most beautiful day of 2015. it was flawless.
usually out this far is really rough. it’s 100′ deep but seemed like a lake. super stoked to run into 2 turtles sun bathing. we ended up jumping in and swimming with them. it was awesome.
the water was super clean. just slick oil surface with deep blue all the way down to the white sand. you could see everything! then we went to the outside and seen a huge whale! luckily got to see the whole tail coming out of the water. super lucky day in nature.
it is Yuki-san’s first time to hawaii. in fact, it’s Yuki-san’s first time leaving japan. the country boy soaking up the surf, sun, and fun in paradise.
Seigo-san on round 2. he must have caught a total of 50 waves today. i taught him a few tricks and he was ripping more and more after each wave. today was the first time he ever did an off the lip, and the first time he did a cutback. i could tell in his facial expression that he was surprised, and super stoked. we will surf all day for the next 2 days so after 2 more days of boot camp, he will be surfing 10x better than he did before he came to hawaii. waves and weather forecast looking perfect so going to dawn patrol tomorrow morning. thanks boys for the awesome full day of fun! and OMG, i’m so bummed the US customs took away the Marutaya Ramen and Yamari Shirasu. i’m so shocked! but i’m sure the boys down at customs are enjoying it tonight for dinner. haha.
and last, the videos people are posting now days are amazing. just by watching this video, you can feel like you’re in the barrel. not the same feeling as actually being in the barrel, but the closest you will ever get to knowing the feeling. lucky you.
only 7:30pm but i’m going to sleep. tired, sunburnt, happy, and can’t wait till tomorrow! goodnight
