Iwate Surf Riders….

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about 6 years ago, i drove down this same road to visit surf shop owner sugimoto-san.  this is kamaishi, iwate.  back then, we surfed together, this time, we tried to figure out what the heck happened….

his surf shop is totally gone!  only the phone/fax machine was tangled in the mess….

take a look at the wood stuck up on the tree!  that’s how high the tsunami came.  sugimoto-san calls it 20 meters or 60 feet.  the biggest tsunami in the history of the world?  scary….

i came across an antique surfboard mixed in the debris.  i hope sugimoto-san revives, rebuilds, and brings back surfing to his favorite beach.  we are with you all the way…
yeah, the 2nd wave came up this high onto the road.  sugimoto-san told me how he ran up into the mountains.  all the roads in and out there were blocked so he was stuck there for 2 nights in the freezing weather.  no electricity, no water, and no contact with the outside world, including his family….

as surfers, we love the ocean and hope to come back to it someday.  the day i get to surf out there with sugimoto-san is one of my dreams.  and my dreams happen!!!!
KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide