woke up 4am this morning to get ready for our dawn patrol and all day session. was out in the ocean by 6:45am just in time to surf with the amazing orange/yellow beautiful sunrise. Seigo-san day 2 trying to catch 50 more waves today.
timing is very important. i was planning to head straight to my secret spot far away but after passing by bowls and seen only a few dawn patrol surfers out, i thought why not warm up on some perfect long rights? Seigo-san caught so many good ones, then when the morning crowd came out, it was time to run away and surf with nobody around.
there are waves everywhere in hawaii. you just have to know where to look depending on the wind, swell direction, tide, and day of the week. today couldn’t have been a better day to get some compact waves breaking on knee high deep razor sharp reef. it was just Seigo-san and I all morning long surfing and laughing. this is a part of hawaii that not too many people have seen before. and the good thing about it is everyday it’s a different wave. most times super windy and junk, but today was super clean and nice!
we were driving around and seen a pod of wild dolphins. usually they swim fast, but today they were swimming slow. i tell Seigo-san “go swim with them!” he looks at me and says “isn’t it dangerous? i say, “hurry and just go!” after he was swimming in the deep blue ocean where huge whales and big tiger sharks lurk, i thought to myself “omg, maybe this is dangerous?” haha.
if you look way in the back of this photo, you will see a tiny dot. that is Seigo-san’s head. i left him there for a while to follow the dolphins. i’m sure he started to freak out. haha.
then we were super hungry so went to “Da Spot” to eat some indo curry and a fresh smoothie.
Seigo-san saw a whale yesterday, swam with turtles yesterday, and swam with dolphins today. he’s a very lucky guy to see it all in the wild, not at sea life park! tomorrow we will spend another day in the ocean and hopefully swim with more creatures from our beautiful mother nature. yeah! after lunch, we went back out and surfed our third session.
the wind and weather is as perfect as it gets. glassy surf in town with super fun waves. for the past 7 days, i spent 28 hours in the ocean!!! omg, that’s crazy! i’m so tired and it’s only 7:20pm but i’m getting ready for bed. see you tomorrow at dawn. good night.
