another marathon day in the ocean. surfed 4 hours in the morning with Dr. Hara-san. a super cool doctor from Shimoda that loves to surf. we had morning boot camp and after our 4 hour session, Hara-san told me he caught more waves today than he would in a year. always stoked to hear that.
then i took him off the beaten path for some mexican. my favorite drink is the horchata and Hara-san liked it too.
it took me less than 5 minutes to finish this plate. i was so hungry!
then we went to bubbies ice cream to get some mochi ice to wash down our mexican meal.
then passed by diamond head to check the waves and wind. it was such a beautiful day today!
then i take Hara-san to an Open House near diamond head. the view was amazing!
then we went outside where pool meets jacuzzi meat ocean. dream house?
check out Hara-san enjoying the view. it’s so funny because i sat in that chair before and thought to myself “someday!”
this is my favorite room of the house. good for my friends.
and yes, a well stocked bar is essential.
i even parked the truck in the driveway to see if it would fit. perfect!
want to buy it? well, it cost $6,638,000 and it’s yours! that’s 789,230,094.54 JPY. someday? or noway? haha.
then we stopped dreaming and surfed again this afternoon. a 1.5 hour session brings up our total to 5.5 hours of surfing! Hara-san surfed so good! learned how to do a cutback today and did too many to count. driving back to the hotel, Hara-san tells me “i think i caught more waves today than in my whole life.” a strong surfer, a happy man, a great smile, and a great doctor! thank you Hara-san! surf your dream!
