3am in the morning and i’m looking for a place to go. i have 4 days to explore on the way to new york. not interested at all in america so i’m looking elsewhere. first, there has to be good surf. second, it has to be somewhere i’ve never been before, and third, it has to be nice. so when i looked at this photo of a spot down south, it looked tempting.
so i researched a little more. found where the next south swell will hit, and this is where i want to be positioned when it shows.
and if i get barreled, let it be. i’m so excited! can’t wait to get home and start packing again. but first, i still have to get home. and second, i still have to unpack. one thing at a time. slow down kirby. haha. but hopefully i will be in one of these big pits next week!