You Go, I Go, We Go!

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i had 2 hours of sleep on the 6.5 hour flight back to hawaii. couldn’t sleep because too much on my mind. had to put on my tibet meditation music to put my mind at ease. arrived in hawaii, jumped on the yamaha, and got home before the rain.
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i was planning to relax today but 2 young girls wanted to go surfing so that’s what we did.
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the waves were so beautiful with the light north winds. i just sat on Mayuki watching the girls surf with the binoculars. thought i’d take a nap but my mind was still out in space.
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looked out to the west and seen the sky clearing. i knew the sunset was going to be amazing so i grabbed my board, waxed up, and jumped into the beautiful ocean. it was sunset surf time!
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on days like today, this single fin keeps me happy. just smooth rail to rail surfing. always great to be back to the basics.
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surfed with the girls and watched the most incredible sunset. one side the sun was setting, then on the other side, a colorful rainbow over diamond head. this is when i realized i was really glad to be back home.
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we stayed out and surfed into dark. just another amazing day.
tomorrow have a long day. gotta start planning for my next adventure. backpacking surf and explore trip. exciting! as for my jetlag, i’ll just let it keep going and going. no sense fix it because i’ll be heading into multiple time zones in the next few days. just going with the flow of time. good night.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide