had a great session with Hara-san. super stoked on surfing and super happy when he’s riding a wave. great balance and concentration on this nice bottom turn.
then we changed boards and changed directions. once you can do a cutback, the rest is easy.
awesome surfing Hara-san! take care and keep on surfing!
our red sky dawn patrol session with Nakamoto-san was one to remember. the best way to start off the day.
early mornings in hawaii is very uncrowded. why? because normal people are sleeping. haha.
awesome surfing Nakamoto-san. glad you got to ride the golden sunrise that morning!
ok, check out the next swell heading straight for central america. it gave me an excuse to have a 4 day stopover on my way to new york. wednesday is the biggest day and i hope to make it there by then. might have to fly to japan again to get to that part of the world. did it before so can do it again. waves all week long!
and the tide is perfect too! perfect swell, perfect tide, and perfect weather equals perfect surf trip. i was only home for a few days but it’s time for me to explore again. life is too short to turn down opportunities like this. see you amigos! from hot tropical weather to freezing cold NY. better pack well.
