it’s been such an amazing time here in el salvador. before i came, i had no idea how the waves and everything would be. all i wanted to do was to experience something different, surf everyday, and relax. i couldn’t have chosen a better place. the surf is amazing here. super good timing as it’s been pumping every single day. point breaks, reef breaks, beach breaks, and river mouths. el salvador has it all. did another dawn patrol this morning about an hour drive away. us 4 amigos and 2 local amigos piled into one small car went to surf this amazing beach break with no one around.
there is no wave in hawaii i can compare this place too. just totally different. just perfect glassy and smooth morning conditions. the face of a wave is like art. you can do the biggest carves of your life. rail to rail surfing to the fullest. i can’t even count how many carves, off the lips, cutbacks, and barrels i had in the past 3 days. i’m pretty much surfed out and the cool thing is the whole trip was documented by a land photographer, water photographer, and videographer catching each and every moment. now i can go back home, study my surfing, and find ways to improve. i haven’t had so many photos and video like this in a long time because i’m usually the one shooting. i know it’s going to help my surfing and if i start to surf better, i’ll feel better, and i’ll live better. simple.
just checked the weather report for new york and seen -2 degrees. omg! i’m going from cheap hot paradise, to expensive cold concrete jungle. looking forward to freezing again. but soon, i’ll be back in hawaii and feeling once again fresh, satisfied, and content. a long way home but nothing is new. just have to enjoy the ride!
