for those of you who don’t know, World Champion Carissa Moore isn’t a small girl. she’s pretty solid. so for Kelia to carry her up from the beach to the stage, it takes a lot of power. look good and the guy on the other side carrying Carissa up looks like he’s struggling more. haha. so for those of you who don’t know, World Champion Kelia Moniz isn’t a weak girl. she’s got a strong body, strong mind, strong soul, and a super strong right hook. better be careful.
i was so excited to wake up this morning and eat my japanese power breakfast. after this, i went to meet my friends down at bowls. nobody showed up? but it was ok because i rode all the waves i would have given them anyway. the locals told me today was the best it’s been in days. score!
then went for a ride on Mayuki to warm her up. she looked like she needed a bath so i scrubbed her down really good. now she’s sparkling clean!
then i washed the truck. all the time thinking to myself “if you love something, take care of it.” nobody believes i had this truck for the past 4 years. still looks pretty dam new.
glad to be back home to the clear blue sky! feel so fresh again and ready to live freely!
went to pick up Ochiai-san for an afternoon surf. she just got off the airplane this morning from japan and we ended up surfing for so long. great surfer and great rides! shaka girl!
just uploaded the photos that my boys in el salvador took of me. 2,036 to be exact. that’s not including the video. now i can sit back, enjoy the shots, and relive every barrel, every turn, and every wave. gosh, i want to go back there already!
