My Day: Dive, Surf, and Stress

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wow, yesterday was a picture perfect day again! just super warm and super sunny. a perfect day to spend on the ocean!
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gosh, it’s been a while since i went free diving. also haven’t eaten fresh fish in a while so it was time to catch some dinner.
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red is best. i tell everybody when they first start diving to look for red fish. all great eating with the prized kumu being on the top.
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good to see my ocean refrigerator full of life. i was surprised how many fish i seen yesterday. just speared 3 fish which is more than enough. been a while since i had to hold my breath for so long but i felt good. just one particular dive kind of scared me. i was down 40′ waiting for a uku to come close. i hid in a crack and just waited and waited. looked at my watch and it was approaching 2 minutes. i knew i should have started going up but thought the kumu would come in. i waited and waited. he kept on coming closer but not close enough to get a good head shot. i finally give up, start making my way up, then right when i reached the surface, my body went into a little shock, my head was spinning, i seen stars, and i almost threw up. that was way to close to a shallow water blackout. and to make things worst, i was diving alone. if something happened, there would be no way my boatman would find me. it’s been a while since i had an experience like that. my fault for pushing my body and mind way beyond my limits. better slow down.
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came back in and took the girls surfing. as i was watching them paddling out, i was thinking to myself what would happen if i wasn’t here anymore to take them surfing. they would be bummed. maybe i shouldn’t be so careless with my life? yesterday was really a “thinking day” for me. happens about once a year after i have a near death experience.
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then i come home and the nightmare starts. my computer is acting strange so i took it to the apple store, waited an hour for them to check it, they end up reseting everything, i bring it back home, took 5 hours to get it started again, then guess what? the fricken same dam problem!!!!!!!!! omg, all that for nothing. total shock!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide