super happy to wake up to the first real south swell of the year! i paddled out at 9am and watched the waves grow and grow. seen some solid 4′ sets by 11am. everybody out, everybody happy. i guess you can say that our summer has officially begun. early, but great!
seen this tourist walk by and start taking photos with his telephoto lens. see the lady bending over with the red bikini on the right side of the photo? that was what he was shooting. first, the guy shouldn’t be a pervert like that. second, that surfer girl shouldn’t be bending over like that with a tiny bikini. both wrong on this one.
had a blast with Morita-san from adachi-ku. it’s her first time surfing and first time to hawaii. super stoked to see her ride so many good waves. i’m guessing she caught about 18 waves today.
we went to check out diamond head. so much action. the waves were perfect! then we saw 4 whales on the outside. then i seen an airplane flying low outside the molokai channel. i got my binoculars out and found out a boat was on fire!!! i hope everybody was ok.
then we went for a poke bowl! like always, i ordered the shoyu ahi and spicy ahi over brown rice. so good and so cheap!
then we went to see the hitachi tree. thank goodness they didn’t start charging the $3 admission fee yet. should be starting up very soon. enjoy it free while you can.
japanese really like this tree. seeing it on tv all their lives, and finally seeing it in person must be exciting.
then we drove out to the north shore. it was such a beautiful day! love hawaii!
waking up early tomorrow morning and surfing this south swell before it’s gone. have a beautiful evening!
