40 Years Surf and Sea Pineapple

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when i woke up this morning and left for work, i knew it was going to be a beautiful day!
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in the valley where i live, i see rainbows very often when i look out my window. the perfect rainbow view! that’s why i love the trade winds because i can see this all day long.
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had a great time surfing with Abe-san and his son Yuta-kun. Abe-san is a surfer from Ishinomaki and has only surfed in hawaii for the past 4 years. it’s incredible how good he’s getting each year. today he caught 2 magical sets from the peak at bowls all the way to the inside of rock piles. as long as you can ever ride a wave out there! score! Yuta-kun did great too! thanks boys for the wonderful morning.
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and want to thank Abe-san for the amazing present from Ishinomaki.
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omg, i love everything in this box!!! going to go good with my rice and breakfast. and also good with my whisky in the evening.
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so cool how japanese pack everything so perfectly. i can’t wait to open one of these up tomorrow.
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i just learned that “Hoya” is also known as “Sea Pineapple.” i actually tried this before in Oshika Hanto and loved it. we don’t have this in hawaii and most parts of the world. it’s a special sea pineapple from ishinomaki.
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this was one of the best photos i took yesterday. it really shows the size of Bowls. us locals would call this 5′ and pretty dam perfect. the swell went down today but it’s only march so many more of these epic days to come. yeah!
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Dove Wetsuits makes 40 years this year! i can’t believe i’ve been with them since 1992 so that makes it 23 years and counting. i only use the best and that’s why i’m with the best. congratulations Dove for your 40th year anniversary! and thank you for keeping me warm for half of my lifetime!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide