wow! went for a surf this afternoon and thought the waves were small. paddled out and some solid head high perfect waves at bowls. new south swell? i guess nobody knew because nobody was out. just typical weekend surfers so we kind of scored. ended up surfing for a while. then this afternoon the north shore came up too. tomorrow morning’s going to be a tough call but i’m in the water before the sun rises!
been surfing and shooting a lot recently. ever since i got back from my trip, i just want to get better and better. better equipment, better surfing, and better waves. so the last swell, i went exploring different secret spots and figured out what works best for waves and wind direction. this spot on this day was probably the best. offshore, barreling, and super fun. especially because nobody was out.
Matchi just made me a new single fin. the first one i ever got from him. had absolutely no idea how it would work because i’m still learning about single fins. so like always, i take it slow on my first wave riding a new board. just taking it easy to feel the board under my feet. took off, bottom turned, then did a half snap. felt super good so as i was coming up for the next turn, i just went for it.
went off the top and pushed really hard. the board held in the lip with only one fin! i was amazed!
i’m super stoked with this photo because this is how it use to be in the 70’s. just simple rail to rail surfing. now i’m going to experiment with different size fins to fine tune this board. then i’m going to ride it in double overhead surf. gosh, i’m in love with surfing again!
