after traveling for so many years and meeting so many people, i kind of know who are the good guys, and who are the bad guys. not even a few minutes on the beach, i came across these two cool el salvadoran surfer dudes. we talked, i asked so many questions. one was “where will be the best spot to surf tomorrow?” they pointed down the road and said about 30 minutes to the south. i told them “ok, please take me there, i’ll give you guys gas money.” they come to my hotel at 5am, knock on my door, grab my board for me, walk me to their car, and drive me 30 minutes south. i get out and couldn’t believe how good the waves were! nobody out and just perfect rights! i grab my board, paddle out, the guys grab their camera and video, follow me, and shoot my whole session.
after it’s done, they take me back to my hotel, pull out their laptop, show me the footage, and everybody is happy. I’m sure i found the best guys possible!
then we started to talk surfing stories. this kid couldn’t understand why i could come all the way from hawaii to surf in el salvador. i told him “i came here to get away from the crowd, surf a different wave, and meet new people.” he looked at me and said “oh, you came to the right place for that.” haha.
this was my first wave i caught on that trip. i remember this perfect right point wave coming to me, i turn around, take off, bottom turn, and see the longest wall ahead of me. so excited that i almost fell off my board.
came up the the perfect glassy wall and did a carve. gosh, it felt so good on my first ever wave in central america!
then i look down and it started to barrel. i pull in, get barreled, come out, and think to myself “are you kidding me??? is this a joke???” it was one of those moments where i thought someday was playing a trick on me.
i was the happiest surfer in the entire world! el salvador is a place i will definitely go back for more dreams to come true.
