ok, get ready for the super typhoon! the biggest of the year so far. heading straight to the philippines pushing south swells up to japan this weekend. very dangerous so be careful!
always good to see my friends at the beach. friends i would have never ever met if it wasn’t for surfing. i met Wade Tokoro about 30 years ago. a great surfer, a great shaper, and one of the nicest guys in the world.
i met Reid out in the water at bowls. another great surfer and one of the nicest guys in the world. so if i didn’t surf, i wouldn’t have met these 2 amazing guys. and my life probably wouldn’t be this good. hank you surfing!
passed by magic island today and got the backstage view of the crew shooting Hawaii Five-0.
then took my little friend surfing this afternoon.
been taking this kid ever since he was 5 years old. today was his first time surfing on his own. you should have seen his expression after he caught his first wave. priceless!
on my last long trip, i was sitting next to a really nice japanese guy on the airplane. we started talking and he told me to watch this movie called “Eternal Zero.” i watched it and it was one of the best japanese movies i’ve ever seen. it’s about the Kamakaze pilots in WWII. you should watch it too!
