my friend Ray sent me some info about secrets spots in indonesia. they just built a new road alone the coastline and supposedly there are tons of secret spots along the way. very interesting! should i go?
then Miwa-san sending me last weeks lineup shot on some secret island. i’ve been there before 15 years ago and i think it’s about time for me to go again. typhoon season 2015 here i come!!!
talking about secret spots. the past 2 days i surfed this outer reef in waikiki. first day good, second day better. super long rights with not too many surfers. in fact, yesterday was saturday but only had 1 guy out in the evening. i wasn’t planning to surf, but after watching many empty waves going to waste, i had to enjoy a few. ended up surfing super long and super hard.
mandatory to have a surfboard in the boat no matter what. i keep this single fin in there so i’m prepared at all times.
surfing into the sunset. i surfed in the morning, did some yoga, then surfed in the evening. an awesome day in paradise.
