so disturbing to see the news about this poor guy getting shot in the back. most people in america are pretty pissed off. the guy who took this video is a hero because if he didn’t, this policeman would be working on the streets shooting more people in the back. now he’s in jail where he belongs. thank goodness.
spent the day out in the ocean yesterday pretty much all day long. it’s crazy how it makes me feel so good. working, surfing, diving, and having fun with friends.
surfed another evening session at the secret spot. only one other guy out enjoying the long rides. surfed with my friend Yoshi from Japan. super stoked to see him surfing so good. enjoyed a few beers and poke before calling it a night.
since i got back to hawaii, every day has been picture perfect from morning till night. that’s why people call hawaii “paradise!”
the first time i took a boat out at night 15 years ago, it was pretty scary. now, it’s not scary anymore, it’s freaking amazing! makes me appreciate the day much much more.
look what i seen at the shelf at the liquor store. a new bottle of Jack Daniel’s FIRE! i’m going to try some next weekend.
