Ono Fever?

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love to watch the ocean. love to people watch. so i see this kid who just bought a new dingy. he blows it up, puts it in the ala wai, and tries his luck. the wind was pretty strong so i already knew what was going to happen.
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the wind blows him straight into the boats. he actually got stuck between two boats.
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but he never gave up. yes, i was laughing pretty hard, but at the same time, i know this is how it begins for everybody. it’s called “paying your dues.”
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was watching the north shore from early morning. super small, the building slowly. seen some 5′ sets by noon so i started to drive out. checked the traffic report and seen major backups due to the monorail train construction. turned around and went to my secret spot. and thank goodness it’s secret because nobody was out. lucky!
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gosh, i need a haircut. haha.
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only had my north shore boards so i had to use what i had. worked totally fine!
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my friend Derek just sent me a photo of his latest catch. he caught all this in one day! he gave me the fisherman’s report and told me “GO!” he told me where, i went down to get some things ready just in case, and maybe tomorrow will be my lucky day.
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i totally forgot i still had these lures! i thought i threw them away the last time i quit fishing. haha.
anyway, going sleep early, wake up early, check the report, and go fish in crazy choppy windy surf weather. you only live once right? if you don’t go, you won’t know! cheers!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide