was so stoked to go down to bowls early this morning. couldn’t believe there were hardly any cars in the parking lot and hardly any guys out. the lineup was empty and the waves were getting better and better. had some solid overhead sets and peeling perfectly. long barreling lefts and an awesome morning surf in hawaii. when i came in, the parking lot was full. and seen 20 hungry locals paddling out at the same time. great timing again! stoked.
i was starving so went to eat at Alica’s in kalihi. my favorite mixed plate with roast pork and charsiu. always happy leaving that place.
this is totally local hawaiian style kind of lunch. the biggest bang for your buck.
then i came home in the early afternoon. looked up the side of my house and realized how country it is here. 10 minutes out of the mountains and i’m in the big city, but when i’m at home, i feel like i’m in the country. cool winds, fresh air, and lots of green, green, and green! i love it!
