went in for a surf at bowls this morning. came home and received a photo from Naoka. i asked him who this was and he said “you.” me? really? i don’t even remember getting barreled at bowls this morning.
then went to check big rights at 10:30am. dropping tide, lots of people, and really inconsistent. went home for lunch, then headed back down at 1:30pm. paddled out and waves seemed like it was getting better. heard the morning was terrible. afternoon wasn’t the best either, but good enough when you can ride waves overhead.
i can see every spot. i can see every surfer. i can see every face. then i count the waves. i know when my number will be up and that’s when i know it’s my time to paddle out. surfing is like a game, if you know how to play it, you will be ahead of the field.
then got home this evening and got another photo from Naoka. off the lip at Big Rights this afternoon. thanks Naoka for being a paparazzi. haha.
no, this is not fireworks. this is war in Yemen. yes, we are still involved in many wars!!!
