gosh, as soon as i jumped into the water this morning, i felt revived. super fun waves, only 3 locals, and had a great session. then had to run around today catching up on things. gosh, why is the sky so blue in hawaii??? i love it!
the surf talk in hawaii is about Joshua Moniz and his big win. everybody coming up and congratulating me on Josh. my response was “i didn’t know Josh can surf that good?” haha. but hey, i was really surprised on his level of surfing recently. only 18 years old and beating seasoned adult professionals. amazing.
so Joshua Moniz is sitting #14 in the world on the current mens QS rankings. unbelievable.
so i come back to hawaii, check CNN, and just see chaos. we are at war in america. the people vs. the government. pretty sad.
than in nepal, the huge earthquake? omg, i didn’t even know. i’m speechless now, and pretty sad too.
then the 2 australians that were executed by firing squad in bali? when ever i see people getting caught for drugs in indonesia, i always remember what i saw the first time, and every time i arrive to indonesia. the immigrations form clearly states in red block letters: DRUG TRAFFICKING IS PUNISHABLE BY DEATH. the government wasn’t kidding. over 18,000 indonesian people die each year due to using drugs. the government has a zero tolerance policy with drug traffickers and will not make any exceptions. that’s what the world just learned.
knowing you will be facing death at midnight must be haunting. i feel sorry for the families left behind.
also some sad news out of hawaii. a lady that lives in maui died from a shark attack today. omg.
one of the Israeli guys i met backpacking told me something after i asked if Israel is dangerous or not. this is what he said “hey kirby, stop watching that bullshit news CNN. it’s all negative, it’s all bullshit, and they just tell the story they want so viewers will watch.” after today, i wish i listened to him. sad depressing news all day long. makes me feel like hiking to the top of that volcano again where i felt so happy and at peace.
