Waikiki Surfing Abunai!!

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i’m so happy to be back home, especially to the sea. went out yesterday to wash Mayuki. it was so beautiful!
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most people clean the bottom of their boats in the ala wai harbor. no way for me! it’s so dirty and full of bacteria. don’t want to touch that water ever since my friend died from falling into the ala wai. i take it outside to waikiki. yes, it’s very rough and very dangerous because if the boat hits you in the head swaying back and forth with the waves, it could knock you out very easily. but it has to be done so no complaints here.
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the winds were super strong offshore again. so i see a japanese tourist way out in the ocean. it’s so easy to go out because the wind will blow you out. but coming back in is another story. i go to him and ask “hey, are you ok?” he says “no, i need help.” i was going to have him jump into the boat but i seen the lifeguards coming out. so i just waited there with him.
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the lifeguards pull up and ask the guy in english “brah, you ok or what?” i say, “hey guys, he doesn’t speak english, but needs you guys to take him in.” i was laughing inside because i know the japanese guy was freaking out. he was more scared of the local lifeguards speaking hawaiian english. haha.
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to all you tourists who come to hawaii. please don’t rent a longboard or SUP, then try to go surfing alone. getting out to sea is soooo easy with the wind behind your back. it actually feels good and makes you look like you know what you’re doing. BUT, getting back to the beach is a challenge. if you can’t paddle strong enough, you will actually go backwards. and the nearest islands are in tahiti. i’ve seen this happen over and over. and most times, there won’t be anybody to help you. so either hire an experienced guide, or please stay out of the water.
Kat McDowell Japan Spring tour w. dates
the Spring Kat McDowell 2015 Tour starts!!!
New Life with Kat.
hope to make it one of these amazing events this year.
take care and hope to see you Kat!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide