From Shikoku: The Longest Ride

279

IMG_6434
today was yet another beautiful day in hawaii. perfect waves and very warm. spent 6 hours surfing and i still wanted more!
IMG_6432
Yoshida-san is from tokushima. seen him last month at the TSSC contest and now here in hawaii. his first time surfing in paradise so i took him to the best spot on the island today, bowls. watched him catch some amazing waves. very long and very fast. after 3 hours, we got hungry so came in.
IMG_6435
yes, a picture perfect day!
IMG_6436
went to BacNam to eat my favorite combination Pho. the best pho on the island.
IMG_6437
i always order #61 which is the combination pho. it costs $8.50 and worth every penny.
IMG_6438
then we went to go check out diamond head. one of the most amazing views in the world.
Screen Shot 2015-05-02 at 1.20.44 PM
then we went for session 2. surfed another 3 hours and added wave after wave to our total wave count. check out Yoshida-san on a big set. i watched him ride a wave for over a minute. i’m guessing the longest wave of his 6 year surfing career. and the cool think about it is that we are going surfing again on sunday! more waves, more smiles, more happiness!
IMG_6439
you really have to leave hawaii to fully appreciate hawaii. i’m not sure if there is anyone else on this island that loves hawaii more than i do. it’s paradise right in front of you!
going sleep at 9pm again, surfing all day tomorrow. can’t wait!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide