even though i was only gone for 6 days, i really missed hawaii. missed the warm weather, cool trade winds, nice waves, and my lovely job. paddling out is always the best part because i always know what’s going to happen very soon. i’m going to ride a wave!
Yoshida-san never rode a single fin before so i let him use my magic board. a magic board i only let a few ride. it’s almost like letting someone borrow your girlfriend. haha. from his first wave, he was ripping! ripping on my baby.
gosh, the waves were so good all day long yesterday. perfect rights and perfect lefts. perfect for a single fin kind of day. Yoshida-san pulling into a pretty nice barrel looking right at diamond head. beautiful!
i love photos like this. it’s as close to the action you can get. it’s real, it’s fast, and it’s furious.
want to thank Bob-san from Bob’s Surf in Tokushima for introducing Yoshida-san to me. a true surfer, and a true smile. keep on surfing guys!
