Cardboard Surfing in Hawaii….

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good morning. 7am and the waves look good everywhere. north shore still got some small clean ones and town came up. bowls looks super fun now with 19 guys on it. chest/shoulder high and perfect. super sunny skies. i’m going out there…. have a great day…

5 down, 7 to go…..
**waves are flat? water is dirty? can’t surf, cant dive, what do you do? go cardboard surfing. yeah, surf the hills in town with a piece of cardboard. it’s super fun and you don’t have to be a kid to do it. i just didn’t want to post myself acting like a kid do i just posted the kids having a fun afternoon a few weeks ago. next time i go, i’m going big. see you on the hills….
**and thanks cathy for correcting me. yeah, maui is the “valley isle”. it was molokai the “friendly isle” right? gosh, both places so much aloha and so many friendly smiley faces. i wish everywhere in the world could be like that. including oahu….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide