had a great 4 days of surfing with Oshima-san. from 11’0 to 10’0 to 9’6. progression every day on every wave. we just surfed, surfed, and surfed.
yesterday morning was beautiful! the morning sun light hitting the water making glassy conditions. a surfers dream!
we laughed so much. i’m sure people from ala moana shopping center could hear us in the water laughing and laughing. thank you Oshima-san for the awesome time in hawaii. have a safe flight home and keep on surfing!
gosh, i can’t even explain how much i love surfing so much. words just can’t describe how happy it makes me feel.
last, the biggest wave of the day comes in yesterday as Oshima-san and i are waiting on the outside. we call it the “obake set” and it was about to break on our heads. at the last second, i yell “throw your board and dive under!!!” Oshima-san throws his board, dives under, and comes up laughing. next time he comes to hawaii, we will get bigger waves, bigger smiles, and louder laughs. haha.
