OMG, the waves have been so tiny recently. but i wanted to surf so bad so i paddled out this evening to bowls at 5pm. super tiny but still fun. then right at sunset time, the swell arrived and there were solid chest high perfect waves coming in! only 3 guys out, super orange sunset, and perfect long bowls lefts. i caught 8 waves in 1 hour and was by far my best session in a while. paddled in at dark to the lights of waikiki. score!!!! swells is here to expect bigger waves and thousands of surfers tomorrow. see you out there!
want to thank Yumi-chan for the japanese tea. i just love the presentation in everything the japanese package.
also want to thank Tajima-san for the japanese KitKat. all are in my stomach already. haha.
still don’t know what Brandon did with the pig. hope he didn’t bbq him already.
been hanging out with Kimura-san and Hayato. two cool surfers and two very important people in my life. throughout all these years, we have thousands of precious memories, and millions more to come.
100′ deep blue water with turtles everywhere. turtles that will swim right up to you and look you in the eye. nature at it’s finest.
always stoked to hang around Kimura-san. we have so much fun teasing each other. haha.
and nobody beats his facial expressions. pure stoke!
caught lots of fish yesterday. these are called “taape” and is an invasive species. these blue-lined snapper were released in the 1950’s in hawaii waters. turned out they were eating the eggs of many prized fish. now we don’t want them but it’s too late there are thousands of them everywhere. so the more out of the water is better for us. and also great eating fish!
stoked to see Keith scoring epic waves off the last 2 typhoons in taiwan. can’t wait to go back there again for the great surf and delicious food.
