had a great time surfing and talking with Atsushi-san. super cool surfer dude from tokushima, shikoku. surfing for 25 years and same age as me so a lot of surfer knowledge. last night, we decided to surf earlier than planned because i knew the onshore winds were coming early today. picked him up at 6:30am, pulled up to epic diamond head! 4′ sets and perfect! got a solid morning session in before the winds came and messed up the conditions around 10am. just as expected. excellent surfing and perfect timing!
then we went to diamond head grill to eat the loco moco. probably one of the best locomoco’s i’ve ever eaten on the island.
thank you Atsushi-san for the japanese food and for the fun time this morning. keep on surfing and hope all your dreams come true!
want to thank Maki-san for the photos of the other day. Hayato, Kimura-san, and Kyle. super fun day fishing, diving, and laughing. it was great to be out in the ocean that day! can’t wait to do it again.
when i catch fish, i love fishing. when i don’t catch fish, i hate fishing. this day, i loved fishing.
i can’t tell from this photo if Kimura-san loves fishing, or hates fishing? haha.
i shot all the women’s heats on day 2 of the contest. i’d have to say that Mari-chan caught the set of the day, or set of the event for the women’s. a huge 5′ freak set came in, she paddled in, late take off, bottom turn, grab rail, and rode it perfectly. if i were a judge, i’d give her a perfect 10 points for this wave.
here is the grab rail. perfect wave, perfect surfing for Mari-chan.
i was routing for Sara-chan. such a cute girl that surfs really smart. if you give her a wave, she will destroy it! i saw her rip a medium size wave up and probably got a 9.0. great surfing Sara-chan!
and it wasn’t easy sitting in the channel watching hundreds of unridden barrels. i’d have to say that Local Motion scored this year. all the competitors were calling this the best 4 days of surfing ever for a contest. i agree.
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CLICK HERE FOR ALL THE ACTION OF THE GIRLS ON DAY 2…
