Soap: Drains to Ocean

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had a great time surfing with Atsushi-san yesterday morning at diamond head. gosh, it’s been a long time and totally forgot how beautiful it was! can’t believe we are just 5 minutes away from waikiki beach and there are no tourists anywhere to be found. totally empty as we got ready for our morning session.
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when i took off on my first wave, i couldn’t believe how clean and glassy it was. the absolute best conditions at diamond head. it felt so good riding such a glassy wave.
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Atsushi-san surfed really good! very impressive on his surfing ability and knowledge. another surfer that enjoyed each and every ride!
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here is Atsushi-san going backside. he is one of the few surfers that realized that the lefts are better than the rights. i have to agree with him.
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then there were some cool surfer girls charging the big sets. this girl was super cool.
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then there were some uncool surfer girls. some girls think that just because they are girls, they can drop in on guys when ever they want. that’s not good thinking. there were a few out yesterday at diamond head and it was pretty irritating.
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thank you Atsushi-san for a wonderful morning. you surfed great and super stoked you love surfing so much.
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thank goodness the city and county are putting signs on all the showers at the beach recently. soap and shampoo drains into ocean. enough said.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide